Fort Kent, Maine N 47 15.169', W 068 35.699' elevation 598 ftI left Keith's house in Kennebunk at about 12:30 in the afternoon today, my destination: Fort Kent, ME, the starting point for US Route 1. About two thirds of the trip was I-95, the rest, Rural RT. 11, a back road highway.
The day's journey got off to a foreboding start. I was on the interstate traveling in the left lane at about 75 mph. I had not been traveling for even 10 minutes, when about 300 feet in front of me, a pick-up truck in the right lane carrying various furniture dropped a mattress. The mattress bounded through two lanes of traffic, right in front of me, and almost up over my car. I saw the whole thing take place in slow motion, as it wavered in the wind, then caught up in a gust and just hovered in the air like a parachute before rocketing at me. It was surreal, like something you'd see in a movie about comic book superheroes. Luckily, I was able to use my video game skillz to swerve out of the way, and keep in control of the car during the swerve. For the next 15 minutes or so, my heart raced as I realized how very close to a serious accident I was, and on the very first day of real adventuring.
One of the things you really notice driving on a less than busy interstate, is the abundance of crows lurking on the side of the road. It seemed like these scavengers were just waiting for me to hit a rodent, rabbit, deer or other hunk of meat, so they could have a tasty snack of road scrape. Nothing really deters the crows either; they'll be munching in the middle of the highway, only flying off at the last possible second before a car hits them, flying the quickest loop possible to get back onto the road. They have no fear as you drive right by them at 75 mph, their beaks only inches from becoming a tasty road snack in their own right. Even honking my horn driving past had no discernible effect.
Speaking of road scrape, near the end of I-95, I spotted a big dark mass by the side of the road, about a quarter mile in the distance. As I grew closer, I started to realize what it was. It just got bigger and bigger, until I drove by, and I could see it was the largest road kill I had seen in my life, a full grown female moose. The carcass was huge, and even in death, rose above the height of the windows on my car.
Northern Maine is pretty desolate. You really get a feel for being in the middle of nowhere when you run across a sign that reads the following:
Leaving town of: East Bum. Now entering town of: T2 R9. Yes, as a matter of fact, the towns in northern Maine
are named after droids.
It was about this time that I started to run into smoke. Unfortunately, I did not see any Smokey The Bear signs telling me the day's threat level assessment for forest fire was:
Hey jerk, You have to travel through one. Only you could have prevented this. At first it wasn't so bad. Visibility was obscured, as you can see from this photo, supposedly a scenic overlook of Mt. Katahdin at the end of the Appalachian Trail.
As you can('t) see, David Copperfield got to the mountain a few minutes before I did.In the fire, I even had the windows open for a time, as the smell was only slightly smokey and I was somewhat enjoying it. As I drove into a thicker part of the fire though, I could feel my eyes start to get scratchy and tear up, so I had to switch to AC, which was not a pleasant thing; it was such a beautiful day sunlight and temperature wise. Additionally, the AC really eats into my gas mileage, an important note considering the budgetary constraints I have placed on myself.
I exited I-95 for Rt. 11 at exit 264, about 100 miles from 95's end. It was about this time that I finished driving through the fire, and left the forest altogether for some more hilly terrain, with fewer, smaller trees. In Alaska, I learned this type of land is called Taiga, which is Russian for tiny sticks or thereabouts. Rt 11 was actually a pretty fun drive, about 110 miles from I-95 until the New Brunswick border, town of Fort Kent ME.
Driving the one lane highway was immensely pleasurable in the late afternoon cool sun. Driving up and down mountain roads gave a great roller coaster effect. The temperature had dipped to the low seventies / high sixties, and there were plenty of trees lining the roads to provide the effect of strobe shade. I was mostly sticking to about 10 miles above the speed limit, as I was running into few vehicles. I also passed a few on the dotted passing areas.
About 35 miles before I reached my destination, I came to the bottom of this large hill, and started driving up it. Like I mentioned before, I was mostly sticking to about 10 miles an hour over the speed limit, but since I had just come down a hill, I was probably going about 20 miles an hour over the speed limit. Near the top of the hill, there is a large white Bronco driving down in the direction approaching me. As I got about halfway up the hill, he was about 300 feet in front of me still, and he flashed me, then turned on blue roof lights. A cop. He drives by me, then quickly turns around, as I am pulling over. I am thinking to myself, what a great way to start out the trip, with a speeding ticket in from the West Bum, ME Police Department. So he gets to my vehicle and asks for my license and registration. I unbuckle my belt and go in the glove box for my credentials. I ask him what the offense is, and he says speeding. I ask him how fast and he says "70 in a 50". I hand my credentials over to him, and he asks where I am going. I say Fort Kent. He asks if I am on my way to the university, and I say, "No, I am going to Route 1. I am doing a long trip down the coast of the US." At this point, I think he is more suspicious of me, he gives me a dirty look and asks rhetorically "long trip?", thinking perhaps I am a terrorist or a smuggler. He then checks out the back of my car, which is filled with maps, coolers, food, clothing, camping equipment, which confirms my story for him.
So now, the long wait. I prepare my story. I think to myself, how can I get this guy to have a little sympathy for me? It is the first day of my trip and this is not the way to start it. Waiting and waiting, can I plead with him for a warning? Perhaps I can demonstrate that if I was traveling uphill and he downhill, that it would have been impossible for him to get an accurate reading on my vehicle. Convenient that he clocked me at exactly 70.
About 10 minutes go by and he brings back my license and registration. I am about to start pleading my case, when he says to me: "I am giving you a double warning. One for speeding, and one for not wearing your seat belt. Maine has a very tough seatbelt law". I start to protest, as anyone who knows me knows I always wear my seat belt, and make those riding in my car wear theirs. I even waited to unbuckle until he could see me unbuckle it. He says in response "I saw you putting it on as I pulled you over". This is all utter bull crap, but I keep my mouth shut, because I am starting to realize "hey, this guy's not so bad after all. Sure he probably estimated my speed, but he is giving me a warning instead of a ticket." He goes on to say that had I gotten a ticket, it would have been $210 for the speeding and another $45 for the seatbelt, so as I am leaving, I am starting to feel pretty good. Instead of bad luck, I have had 2 incidents of good luck today.
After about 45 more minutes, I finally arrived at Fort Kent, which is the northernmost point of the contiguous United States. I found US Route 1 at the end of Route 11. They have this crappy little marker to show off the starting point of Rt. 1:

Directly north of the start of Rt. 1 is the border crossing to New Brunswick. There is a checkpoint, and a bridge over a Fish River to Canada. The US customs officer inside has the boredest look I've ever seen in a border guard. I can tell he sees the same 15 cars cross the bridge every day, and not much else, as Mainers and / or Canadians cross for entertainment in the town on the other side of the river. The grass is always greener.
From what I have seen, God is alive and well in Fort Kent, as about a quarter of the buildings are churches of varying denominations. Here is a photo of the actual Fort Kent.

The billboard entering Fort Kent proclaims it to be the friendliest city in Northern Maine, which must be a dubious distinction, because I have yet to run into a friendly person. Living on the front lines of the War on Terror
TM seems to have dissipated the friendliness in favor of a general malaise and distrust of outsiders. I have gotten some of the dirtiest looks cruising around town to get my bearings. I think the Terrorism Alert Level is at a permanent red in Fort Kent. The locals seem particularly suspicious of people driving foreign cars with out of state license plates, and covered with the leavings of tens of thousands of dead bugs, accumulated in the 850 miles of the trip thus far.